On November 28th, I was finally able to fly to the South Pole. I was planning on just spending the day there, however due to weather, I ended up staying two nights. My fellow civilian passenger, Ase from Sweden, snapped this shot as we waited to board the LC-130 that would take us there.
When I landed, the South Pole management team whisked me away on a whirlwind tour of the facilities and issues the station is facing. As the Operations Program Manager for all of our Antarctic Bases, it's necessary for me to understand what the problems are and what needs to be fixed first. They also took me to the geographic South Pole and the ceremonial South Pole.
That's the South Pole Station in the background, which is one long building with three lodging wings off the main hallway.
Inside, they have a display of South Pole markers throughout the years. Each year, the team at Pole votes on a design and creates the marker that will be at the geographic Pole. There are lots of intricate designs and the teams take pride in their selection.
It was pretty darn cold outside. I'd look in awe at the temps each day. -46.7 deg F with windchill on this day. Also, they don't always have satellite coverage, so you have to check the local website to see when you can use the internet and make phone calls.
I preferred looking out the windows of the long corridor to walking around outside in the cold! This is a pretty view between two of the lodging wings. You can see that one of the biggest issues this station faces is snow buildup. Heavy equipment operators are constantly having to move snow away from the station and any buildings. Many science buildings (a bit further away) are becoming buried more and more each year. It's a constant battle that we are losing.
We took a Pistonbully to see the science sections of South Pole. You can see the station in the distance and one of the telescope buildings.
As mentioned, the entire station is one building. It's where everyone lives, works, spends all their free time, etc. They have some interesting rooms to help the community pass their time, such as game rooms, craft rooms. music rooms, a gym, and a greenhouse so they can at least see some plants.
Each person has their own room at South Pole. That's certainly the envy of those at McMurdo that have to share their rooms with 1-4 others! Each room has a bed that can be elevated above drawers, a wardrobe, and a desk. Bathrooms are shared down the hall.
One of the advantages to having a much smaller station (100 people vs 1200) is that the food is tastier. The same ingredients are ordered for the different stations, but cooking for much less people invites some room for creativity. I had some amazing soups while I was there: Egg Drop, Brunswick Stew, and a Seafood Stew that could rival those I've had in Iceland. The only bummer was that we have a COVID policy that people have to wear a mask for 5 days after arrival and cannot eat in the galley. Since I was there for 2 days, I had to grab my food and eat alone versus eating with the people which I would have preferred.
I didn't try it, but they had REAL ice cream. McMurdo does not have this.....yet.
Well, it wasn't all fun and games. Back to work... I took a very intense tour of "the tunnels" and "the arches". There's an elaborate tunnel system under the station. Utilities, waste, cargo, storage, and fun shrines fill these areas. And it's COLD. In a matter of minutes, you can freeze your eyelashes.
This storage arch reminded me of the warehouse scene in Indiana Jones. Those are supplies and even food that's stored in sub-freezing temps.
The creative residents have created "shrines" along these tunnels with interesting themes. This one was dedicated to Buzz Aldrin's visit there. Apparently, that was a kleenex he used that is in the case......
I should mention that you notice immediately the altitude difference and the effects. I was winded more and it was harder to breathe. It was a noticable difference when I got back to McMurdo. My brisk trout through the tunnels was harder than any HIIT workout I've done stateside. They tell people not to workout for a week until you are acclimated there.
I learned a lot about this station in a short amount of time. Most notable was the family feel here since it's a much smaller community. Several scientists are working the telescopes and it's evident that the entire community is interested in the work that's going on here, regardless of their job position while here.
I appreciated all the tours and time the management team gave me while there. It's not easy to have the Program Manager arrive and spend a few more days than planned. They were gracious hosts. I did curse myself for having to stay extra days when I took my sheets off after the first morning. I thought I'd nicely fold them and get them to laundry, but then learned that was the curse of not leaving.... and it did come true. (Never ever pack your stuff/take your sheets off the bed until the plane takes off from McMurdo to come get you!) Weather was supposedly going to be bad at McMurdo, so the LC's decided not to come. In the end, the weather turned out fine, but I got an additional night at the South Pole AirBNB.
After a few days, it was time for the LC to come pick me up. I was so ready for a shower (at Pole you can only shower twice a week and only for up to 2 min at a time.... this is due to not wanting to overflow/overwhelm the waste water collection).
Once again because of my position, I was able to sit in the cockpit. This time the views were better.
It was a quick two day trip, but I'm grateful that I finally got to see this station. It will help me understand the issues better and visualize more easily the priorities for the budget. I really did relish that shower upon return!
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